As I mentioned in my last post, the last month has probably been the most socially active so far in Sweden. A lot of this social activity has revolved rather heavily around food, resulting in Aert and I feeling both terribly spoilt and like we will need to spend the coming month at the gym every day to compensate. The highlights, in chronological order, are as follows:
Surströmming:
My surströmming experience is oddly classified as a ‘highlight’ - more accurately its the kind of thing that more daring side of you feels obliged to try, to prove how adventurous and open to new experiences you really are. A Swedish specialty from the northern coastal districts, you will either find Swedes who love the stuff, or simply can’t stand the smell of it and have never tried it. And fair enough too - surströmming is actually fermented herring, and you can smell an open can (which smells like something sulfurous and not at all appetizing) from at least a good 100 m away. If you actually make it close enough to the can, you wont be rewarded by the sight either - the fish looks slimy and altogether disgusting - see pic below.

Still with the help of Lasse, some strong onions, potato and bread to disguise the fish (both sight and taste I think) I was able to eat two sandwiches, and have to confess that the experience wasn’t half as bad as it looks and smells like its going to be. Plus when you are around the open cans for more than a few minutes you become more or less immune to the smell and don’t notice it anymore. The surströmming was a lunchtime event organised by some of my chemistry colleagues, so Aert missed out.

Gästrikland and Hälsingland (visiting Lasse’s family)
The last weekend in September was Lasse’s last weekend in Sweden, and as a final indulgence he took Aert and I up to Gävle (to visit his Mum) and then even further north to Hälsingland (to visit his Uncle). I went up a night early to watch an icehockey game (the local team Brinäs defeated Linköping 9-1!!) and Aert joined us after work on Friday. Here’s where the spoiling really began: Lasse’s Mum cooked an amazing dinner for us and two of Lasse’s other friends consisting of roasted and casseroled (that’s two separate main dishes) wild boar followed by cake for desert. The roasted wild boar was particularly divine with a sauce made from Calvados. All up it was a really great dinner, though we felt really bad because Lasse’s wonderful Mum AnnMarie (who is 75 though you would never guess it!) spent nearly the whole day cooking and then the whole night cleaning up - though she was determined not to let us help.
The following day we headed North into Hälsingland on the train. We were met by Lasse’s Uncles wife, Annika, who took us to an animal park full of Swedish animals. Finally a chance to see some local wildlife up close: Reindeer, Brown Bears, Wolves, Moose, Arctic Foxes, Wolverines and of course Lynx, as well as a host of birds. Funnily enough the reindeer blew me away the most - I found their over sized antlers (which they keep for life) such a strange an inconvenient thing - surely they must be such a hindrance in the forest!
That evening we headed to Sigge (Lasse’s Uncle) and Annika’s house for dinner. AnnMarie joined us and we were again treated to an amazing feast - this time two pheasants (shot by Sigge - one a black pheasant and the other I can’t quite remember) and Hälsingland Ostkaka (cheesecake, but not like Australian/English/American cheesecake) with fresh raspberry jam… all in all totally HEAVENLY!! I can certainly see where Lasse gets his cooking skills from!
Stadshuskällaren:
Stadshuskällaren is a gourmet restaurant located in the cellar of the Stockholm town hall. It is famous because it is responsible for providing the annual Nobel Prize dinner. Since my chemistry colleagues are connoisseurs of good food, (where good is gourmet, expensive and traditional - think French, traditional Swedish, Italian etc) I organised a group dinner here for the first Friday evening in October. The rather steep price tag turned Aert’s taste a little, so he didn’t join. The ambiance in the restaurant was, I felt, a little disappointing - aside from a Japanese couple who were having a Nobel dinner, we were the only other people in the restaurant, which I don’t think is very pleasant. Still there was enough of us, and with the encouragement of some good wine, we had a really great evening.

I had moose to start, which was quite tasty, although after a mouthful or two I couldn’t stop thinking about the young moose I had been patting the previous weekend at the zoo in Hälsingland! Other people had blue mussel and oyster cappuccino (which struck me as a highly pretentious name for soup) and the traditional option of pickled herring. For main course I had ‘Saddle and shoulder of Autumn lamb with seasonal primeurs, served with lamb gravy and Västerbotten cheese croquettes’:

As you can see from the photo above, it was a VERY gourmet affair, and although it did taste pretty good, it arrived *warmish* and didn’t really strike me as anywhere near 260 SEK ($45.20) worth of unforgettable taste experience! I decided to save some money on desert and had chocolate truffles (two for 45 SEK!!!!) with a glass of port, which, if it hadn’t been for the fact that I was paying $8 for two small pieces of chocolate would have been enjoyable. At the end of the night I was 750 SEK out of pocket ($130 - for two courses + chocolate, two glasses of red wine and a port) and although the food didn’t quite live up to my expectations the company was good and the rest of the party seemed to be more than happy with their whole evening which seemed at the end to be the most important thing and make the night worthwhile!
Dinner with Charlie
The final gastronomical event came the following evening, when Aert and I headed over to Charlie’s (my ‘boss’) for dinner. In my opinion, Charlie and his lovely ’sambo’ Tula put on a spread that was far more impressive than the previous evenings fare, but then I guess its all a matter of perspective. We had a salad of figs, pomegranates, ruccola and baked chevre cheese dressed with honey and balsamic vinegar to start, a dish that I will certainly try to replicate next time I want to impress some people! Roast lamb followed with amazing mango salsa and finally homemade blueberry pie. And of course not forgetting the good flow of wine: all in all a really great evening and a perfect cap to what felt like a month of excessive eating!